A Sunday excursion

In the particular neck of the Northwoods of Wisconsin where our cabin is located - Vilas County - there is a multitude of beautiful, unspoiled lakes. There are, in fact, some 1,320 lakes in Vilas County, including 563 named lakes and 757 unnamed lakes, more than any other county in the state. The result is one of the highest concentrations of inland freshwater lakes in the world. To discover them all, we do have our work cut out for us. We usually try to avoid the chain lakes in most cases, as they are too busy with motorboats and fishermen early in the morning to suit our needs for a quiet paddle and a little peace and serenity.

In the years we have been exploring these waters, we have not been disappointed with the variety of different lochs we have discovered. Luna and White Deer lakes, for example, which are so small they are listed on a local lake map as a single location, Luna-White Deer. It was an unexpected delight to discover that they are actually two separate bodies of water, each with its own wilderness shoreline. Carpenter Lake is the site of one of the most beautiful unspoiled campgrounds we have ever had the pleasure to spend a night at. One fall, we obtained a permit and gathered wild rice on a beautiful autumn afternoon on Allequash Lake. The rice stands so thick in the water, it is difficult to paddle through at times. Picturesque Butternut Lake is mostly wild with beautiful home sites sparsely scattered around its perimeter.

On a recent Sunday morning in September, Anvil Lake in eastern Vilas County is our familiar destination. Feeling a bit lazy this morning, we do not hit the water until nearly 7 a.m., but still the lake is as smooth as glass. As we paddle out, no other traffic, human or water going, is evident. The sun is up, the temperature warm. There is no wind.

As we pull away from the dock, we observe a loon 20 feet ahead and to the left of our course. We pull right a bit so as not to frighten him. We like to paddle this lake as it is not only near our cabin, but several pairs of nesting loons reside here. We have seen them before eggs have hatched, with very young offspring and doing what appears to be teaching the young to fish.

On this late summer morning, it is a male we observe. We soon hear him utter a plaintive call to his mate. He then spies us and ducks below the surface of the water to make his escape. He pops up some time later, 50 feet beyond his previous location. His mate echoes his call and we spot her later on our journey.

We head east along the south shore, close enough to spot wildlife lurking in the brush. Miraculously, we spot a cautious red fox peering at us from the bushes. It disappears before we can snap a picture. He almost seemed a mirage, given the speed of his disappearance.

As we continue, we see an eagle circling overhead. He spots a fish and dives for it, only to emerge quickly with his breakfast firmly ensconced in his beak. Terry and I are silent, both watching the eagle. Words are not necessary and would only disturb our peace in this magical setting.

As we continue on, a family of ducks watches us cautiously as they swim along the shore. The mother and three ducklings waddle onto shore, putting as much space between them and we intruders. Only after we pass their location do they again take to the water, heading in the opposite direction of our travel, with the mama watching us cautiously from behind her brood.

We round the edge of the lake and spy the loon nest we have been watching for a number of years. Careful to stay 50 feet away, we wait for awhile but see little. The loons must be out for the day.

The wind is beginning to pick up so we decide to head back to the dock, our calm having been disturbed. It is then that we observe the loons swimming in a line: two chicks swimming between their parents. We halt our forward motion immediately and watch as the mature birds take turns showing their young how to dive and hunt. We watch for while, then, spotted by the adults, we move on.

Traffic on the lake starts to pick up as we near the dock. Boat motors begin to disturb the peace. More fishermen are taking to the water and locating favorite spots around the lake. We dock the kayak, then load it onto our vehicle, completely relaxed by the calming start to our Sunday.

We return to our little cabin in the woods, feeling much as if we had attended a church service. All seems right with the world and everything seems to be in perspective again. In this frame of mind, we ready ourselves to make the trip back to our home in the southeastern part of the state and the busy workweek ahead, all the richer for having taken this quiet paddle.