Sunday, April 20, 2025
Michael McFadzen
Work had taken most of my day, but with excellent snow conditions and a full moon, I wasn’t about to waste a perfectly good ski outing. With dog Jaxson as my ski bud, I ditched the khakis and dressed in cold weather garb. It was 15F when we unloaded at a nearby snowmobile trail. Marginal snow conditions for sledders made for a perfect evening ski. Jaxon charged down the trail as I chased him on my fat waxless skis. I caught and passed him on a long rolling downhill.
I feel lucky to live in the Kettle Moraine.
Greenbush Recreation Area
The silent sports crowd loves Greenbush, with its myriad of trails. An expansive system offers over 130 miles of skiing, snowshoeing, hiking, biking, horseback riding, and snowmobiling. Greenbush boasts 25K of groomed trails comprising 6 loops, including a beginner’s trail. It’s a dream for snowshoers and hikers to connect the various systems through the Ice Age, snowmobile, or equestrian trails, all of which run the length of the forest. Be aware when the snowmobile trails are posted open. Greenbush also provides 9K of challenging singletrack, which makes for an excellent fatbike and snowshoe experience. Cruise alongside huge eskers and kettles with big-time drops. Greenbush often has snowpack when adjacent areas are barren. A combination of high elevation and significant forest canopy has Greenbush maintaining good snow conditions when surrounding areas have meltdown. Several times per year, Greenbush can become a trail of regional destination for winter enthusiasts from Chicago to Green Bay. Locals call it: The Greenbush Micro-Climate. My perfect Sunday is skiing the Greenbush backcountry in the morning, fatbiking in the afternoon, followed by an evening Packer game victory. [Editor’s Disclaimer: Football opinions expressed herein are solely the author's and do not necessarily reflect those of management sixty miles south of Lake Geneva.] The Northern Kettle Moraine Nordic Ski Club Snow was falling at the rate of one inch per hour, with six inches already on the ground and more on the way. Winter storm warnings were posted, but there was time for a quick ski outing. I barely made it to the Greenbush Trails as bowed roadside trees formed a tunnel from several days of accumulating snow. It wasn’t long before I heard trees cracking and collapsing from the weight of the heavy wet snow. I was surprised to see Chief Groomer Jeff Welsch making corduroy in these difficult conditions with the Gator ATV groomer. I warned him about the conditions; he shrugged it off, as usual. I found out later that he had to chainsaw his way out to make it home. (See Phantom Groomer sidebar.) A thriving cross-country ski scene is led by the Northern Kettle Moraine Nordic Ski Club (greenbushusa.com). The Ski Club has invested hundreds of thousands of dollars into the property. This includes funding and building a four-season, handicap-accessible shelter and two storage facilities for grooming equipment. The Ski Club owns the grooming equipment and its members groom the trails. The Ski Club completed a $25,000 Recreational Trails Program renovation, which brought the trails up to national standards. The project involved a combination of regrading for even canting, re-routing trail sections to get out of sunburn, and widening. Some areas necessitated extensive work using mechanized grading equipment to re-profile the trail tread by flattening surfaces, canting trails for a long-term sustainable surface, and removing erosion tracts. Greenbush’s 2K Brown Loop is lighted during the winter months, which makes it the perfect trail for the Storm Youth Ski Team (greenbushusa.com/youth.php). Coach Steven Scharrer heads up the program which ranges in size from 20-40 participants. Skiers joke that the heated Greenbush shelter becomes the largest daycare center in the county on a snowy weekend. There is a sledding hill right out the door. Northern Unit—Kettle Moraine State Forest The 30,000-acre Northern Unit of the Kettle Moraine State Forest is located 50 miles northeast of Milwaukee. While Greenbush gets a lot of notoriety, don’t pass up the Zillmer Trails, which are groomed by the DNR. Both have heated shelters and cater to thousands of skiers annually. Kettle Moraine State Forest Superintendent Samantha Lindquist is happy to have landed in the Kettles. “The glacier landscape,” Lindquist said, “with its unique topographical formations presents many recreational opportunities. The elevation of the northernmost portion of the forest boosts the Greenbush trail system as a pinnacle cross-country ski destination. Other winter activities within the forest include ice fishing the many area lakes, snowshoeing the Ice Age Trail, hiking the Butler Lake looped trails, fat-tire biking the New Fane trail system, and cross-country skiing at the Zillmer trail system. There is an activity for everyone. We are fortunate to have this significant geographical landscape preserved for all to enjoy.” Another key organization that improves visitor experiences is the Friends of the Kettle Moraine State Forest. The organization helped fund both the Greenbush and Zillmer Recreation shelters. Other Friends activities include an annual candlelight ski/hike as well as funding the Saturday Evening Events organized by naturalist Jackie Scharfenberg. The Friends have also funded several development efforts in the forest, including prairie plantings, playground equipment, invasive species control, natural landscaping, interpretive signage, and the purchase of educational equipment. Current projects include an accessible kayak launch at Mauthe Lake and renovation of the two-mile nature trail. Both projects are partially funded by Knowles-Nelson Stewardship Grants. Members of the Friends group provide thousands of volunteer hours to forest projects and events. Board member Roger Clark can’t say enough about the Friends. “This group has a dedicated passion for the Kettle Moraine State Forest. They strive to impart the beauty of nature’s wonderland by its mission of conservation, recreation, and education regarding the forest itself and the glacial processes that formed the land in the area. I am glad to be a part of that group.” The Whole Enchilada The Kettle Moraine State Forest is divided into two large units (Northern and Southern) and three small units, which are spread across a hundred miles. The Kettles are southern Wisconsin’s most popular recreation areas with well over 3 million visitors annually. And it's all connected by the Kettle Moraine Scenic Drive, stretching 125 miles from Elkhart Lake to Whitewater Lake. This mostly forested and undulating terrain makes a great place for a cadre of outdoor sports. This zone is unique in the Midwest, containing landforms such as kettles, kames, and eskers. The distinctive geology was caused by the receding glaciers over 10,000 years ago which, in turn, caused depressions called “kettles.” These range in size from potholes to large lakes. For an overview of the area's unique glacial features, visit the Henry Reuss Ice Age Center located west of Dundee on Hwy 67 (dnr.wisconsin.gov/topic/parks/kmn/naturecenter). Some of the best-known formations are Holy Hill, Lapham Peak and the infamous Dundee Mountain, with its numerous reported and published UFO sightings. Catch me in person, and I’ll describe my experience atop this famed kame. Ice Age Trail & Forest Issues Meandering 60 miles through both Kettle Moraine units, the Ice Age Trail provides stunning vistas, prairie displays, and arboreal tunnels through climax forest. Designers managed to place the trail in some of the most scenic places of the Kettles. It offers a surprisingly wild feel for a place so close to the metro areas of Southeast Wisconsin and northern Illinois The Kettles get millions of visitors annually and continued growth puts increasing pressure on one of the busiest recreational forests in Wisconsin. The demand for events such as ski, running, bike, and adventure races is also growing, adding additional challenges for staff and property. Dwindling state funds make user partnerships the key to maintaining current offerings. Organizations like the Northern Kettle Moraine Nordic Ski Club have made it possible to sustain and grow programs. Ski Club President Debbie Werner understands the DNR’s position. “We know what’s happening to state funding,” Werner said. “With the cooperation of the local DNR, our Club buys the grooming equipment, grooms the trails, developed a lighted ski trail, and built a four-season recreational shelter. It's a great relationship, everyone benefits.” Eats, Brews, & Stays: Kettle Moraine North There are plenty of places to reward yourself after a Kettles workout. Good restaurants include the Paddock Club (paddockclubelkhartlake.com) and Lake Street Café (elkhartlake.com/p/lake-street-cafe) in Elkhart Lake. The Paddock is pseudo-gourmet, with favorites being seared scallops or Bolognese. Lake Street Café is an eclectic eatery that claims to serve California bistro cuisine; while I’m not sure what that is, they have great burgers, a wonderful lobster bisque, and tasty entrees. The Fig and Pheasant (thefigandpheasant.com) in nearby Plymouth has a superb linguine and excellent fish and chips. Stay the night in this cool boutique hotel which features fun Irish music on Wednesdays. If you want to splurge, check at the AAA Four Diamond Osthoff Resort (osthoff.com) on Elkhart Lake. Thirsty? The Plymouth Brewing Company Tap Room has fourteen of their best on draught including the renowned Nutt Hill Brown Ale. My favorites at SwitchGear Brewing (switchgearbrewing.com) in Elkhart are the Red Ale or the potent Wee Heavy Scotch Ale; you’ll need a designated driver after quaffing a couple of these. There is a thriving live music scene in Elkhart Lake, with key venues being the Shore Club (920-876-3323) and the Lake Deck (920-876-3366). Always call ahead for hours of operation and/or reservations. Goodness, gracious, Greenbush has it all! End of an Era: Greenbush’s “Phantom Groomer” Moves Towards Retirement Before the Northern Kettle Moraine Nordic Ski Club reached an agreement with the DNR to groom the Greenbush ski trails, an unusual phenomenon was taking place. Starting in the early 1980s, skiers were arriving to groomed trails, having no idea who or what had happened, knowing only that the DNR didn’t do it. Someone was sneaking onto the trails in the middle of the night and grooming the ski trails. Jeff Welsch, aka, the Phantom Groomer, loved to ski and realized he was the one to start working the trails since the DNR didn’t have the equipment or manpower. During the Phantom Era, Welsch burned through two Artic Cat snowmobiles and three engines on his own dime. He also designed, built, and personally paid for his drags. This continued until the Ski Club reached an agreement with the DNR and started financially supporting the grooming operation. The Phantom Era ended, but not his dedication. With the Ski Club on decent financial footing, Welsch guided its grooming operations for nearly four decades. This included raising money, training groomers, planning events, trail maintenance, and fixing equipment, as well as helping plan and build the Greenbush Shelter, equipment storage structures, and much more. Starting in the late 1990s, the Ski Club hosted an annual race, ski lessons, and the popular winter festival Nordic Heaven, and Welsch had a role in all of this. “Grooming trails is more than riding around on equipment,” Welsch said, “and with climate change affecting weather patterns, grooming is more complex. Low snow conditions have been the norm in eastern Wisconsin the last few years.” Grooming is not glamorous. Welsch knows that the best tracks are made in the middle of the night, not at 10 AM under blue-bird skies; and more than once, he had to hike out of the forest in the middle of the night in freezing temperatures because of broken equipment. Welsch also maintains the equipment, which, in the process, causes numerous abrasions, cuts, and bruises. Broken hydraulic line, check; tracks off the Gator SUV, check—there isn’t much he can’t fix. Welsch’s grooming reputation is unimpeachable. He has had a key role in helping shape Greenbush as a regional Nordic destination. Skiers come from as far away as Chicago, Green Bay, and Sheboygan to enjoy the expertly groomed trails of Greenbush. And Welsch takes particular pride in laying down perfect classic tracks, which skiers revel in. In his former life, he was a corporate pilot, which fits well in the grooming world because no one wants to fly in stormy and snowy weather. When not grooming trails or fixing equipment, Welsch likes skiing and hiking with wife, Holly. Skiing well-groomed tracks and the Greenbush back-country are his favorites. He also loves laying down tele-turns on groomed or ungroomed terrain. The former PSIA-certified instructor is always willing to dole out advice to novices even if they don’t want to hear it. He’s is an avid and ethical hunter, fisherman, biker, paddler and home chef. And a cedar strip canoe he built might be a favorite among his other paddle craft. Welsch is going to spend less time grooming and more time skiing this winter. “I plan to be on snow every day this winter,” he laughed, but he will also help transition the grooming team this year. Going forward, however, his key focus has shifted to daughter, Allie, and his grandkids living in Colorado. Jeff and Holly will be moving to Lake George, Colorado, when their home is finished being built in 2023. These are big shoes to fill. Welsch’s work has created a lasting legacy in the Wisconsin ski world. To the Phantom Groomer, to the man who gave his talent, time, money, and love to the Greenbush trails, thank you times thousands and thousands of happy skiers, and congratulations! * Silent Sports Magazine continues on in the Greg Marr Tradition. 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