Lakeshore pedaling

Northwestern Michigan is a cyclist's paradise. The movement of continental glaciers over Michigan thousands of years ago sculpted out hundreds of lakes and pushed land into rolling hills that offer exhilarating and picturesque biking.

Except for Traverse City, whose metropolitan area population tops 140,000, the land is sparsely settled. Traffic is generally not a problem in this part of the state. In any 30- to 40-mile route you will pedal along lakeshores, under forest canopies, past farms and orchards, and through small towns.

The Cherry Capital Cycling Club publishes the Bicycle Map of Northwestern Michigan with suggested bike tours. Their map, by also noting roads with heavy traffic, is invaluable when planning cycling trips. The map is available through the website at www.cherrycapitalcyclingclub.org.

Driving along the shore of Lake Michigan, north from Frankfort to Northport, is about 60 miles. But along that stretch are jumping off points for some magnificent bike tours. For our riding group, almost as important as choosing the best cycling route is finding a great eating spot after the ride for replenishing our calorie deficit. So in addition to detailing five of our favorite routes, I will make restaurant recommendations.

Here's five of our favorite road trips:

From the town of Frankfort, pedal along the shore of Betsie Lake and head east on the paved Betsie Valley Rail-to-Trail Path project following the Betsie River. To get to the village of Beulah on the east shore of Crystal Lake, choices must be made. The rail trail becomes gravel just before it reaches Crystal Lake and then continues for several miles as a packed dirt road. A little dicey for skinny tires; however, the ride along the edge of Crystal Lake makes it worth the effort. Pavement lovers turn off on County Road 608 (River Road) and follow it, with a bonus hill to climb, into Beulah.

Beyond Beulah you can finish going around Crystal Lake for a 27-miler. The road follows the lakeshore, giving cyclists a level ride and an often unobstructed view of the strikingly blue waters of Crystal Lake, considered one of Michigan's most beautiful.

To add miles and more challenging pedaling, go from Beulah to Honor on back roads, then follow Deadstream Road along Platte Lake or head north on Indian Hill Road to top off the loop. A word of caution: Warren Road, which looks like a nifty cutover, is a serious hill. It's a tough climb south to Crystal Lake and a dangerous descent going north to Platte Lake.

If you're looking to take a swim or play in the sand, follow the Platte River on Lake Michigan Road or Point Betsie Road to the lighthouse. As you return to Frankfort, take Michigan Avenue off Michigan Highway 22 for a more scenic finish.

For a post-ride feed, try Dinghy's Bar. Their barbecue pulled pork sandwiches and ribs are legendary.

The village of Empire is headquarters for Sleeping Bear National Park. For this route, head north on Michigan 22 and turn left onto Pierce Stocking Road. During the late April to mid-November season, park passes must be purchased. But pedaling this hilly, 7.5-mile narrow winding road is unforgettable. The views of Lake Michigan and Glen Lake cause even the most ardent cyclist to pause for a look. Pierce Stocking Road is also the main thoroughfare access to Sleeping Bear Dunes, which rise 400 feet up from Lake Michigan, so this roadway receives tons of traffic midsummer. As the shore of Glen Lake is reached, riders can opt to add five to 15 miles by circling Glen Lake or crossing at the narrows. The quickest return via County Road 677 will complete a 29-mile loop. Two long climbs are encountered going south on County 677.

The burgers and beer at the Friendly Tavern in Empire will quickly replenish you after a day's ride.

With Glen Arbor as a starting point, the obvious loop is the 15-miler around Glen Lake. Do this counterclockwise to minimize the climb up Inspiration Point along the south shore of Glen Lake. Take a moment to stop at the small turnoff park at the top of the hill and view the deep blue waters set against the backdrop of sand dunes in the distance. Then get ready for a downhill express chute on dry pavement that becomes a real white-knuckle ride when the road is wet.

To lengthen the tour take Burdickville Road to Bohemian Road and head toward Lime Lake. Trumbull Road, another connector, offers a good climb. Likewise going west on Ryland Road yields a memorable uphill. Follow the shore of Lime Lake, take a short stretch of Michigan 22, and enjoy a shaded ride along Traverse Lake Road. Following West Harbor Highway (Michigan 22) to Glen Arbor for a delightful ride through forests, old orchards and wetlands.

Knowing that the day will end with a meal at Art's Tavern in Glen Arbor invigorates everyone as they pedal those last miles.

Glen Arbor's business district has been fashioned with tourists in mind and has a good variety of restaurants. During the summer it may be hard to find parking. However, there is ample space on the west shore off Glen Lake at the Dune Climb on Michigan Highway 109. Masochistic bikers may want to try the dune climb after the ride. Be forewarned, Lake Michigan does not appear at the top of the first dune; reaching the water entails a couple miles of walking.

Circling North Lake Leelanau ensures a flat easy ride for those not eager or ready to tackle the other more rigorous routes in Leelanau County.

Traffic is generally light until you reach Duck Lake Road (Michigan Highway 204) around the southern end of Lake Leelanau. During the summer season, a stream of vehicles heads to the village of Leland, where historic Fishtown and trendy shops lure hordes of tourists. To appreciate the quaintness of the village, cyclists should ride the back streets to view the homes along the Leland River and Lake Leelanau shore.

Our favorite eatery is the Happy Hour Tavern located several miles north of town on Michigan 22.

The Happy Hour Tavern on Michigan 22 north of Leland is our departure point for the ride up Michigan 22 toward the village of Northport. This route, while boasting no monster hills, has regular doses of ups and downs. In Northport you have the option to do a 15-mile add-on round trip on level roads to see the lighthouse. Northport Marina Park and Peterson Park provide public restrooms.

Several paved roads in the interior provide good alternative routes through farm and orchard lands where high points offer panoramic views of Lake Michigan and Traverse Bay. For more level biking choose Michigan 22.

Although I've commented on our favorite rides in this part of the state, a little reconnoitering with a country map or checking the Cherry Capital Cycling Club's excellent guide will reveal many more possibilities.