Wintertime on the Apostle Islands

Most people visit the Apostle Islands in the spring, summer or fall, with Madeline Island being the primary destination. It's an easy 1.5-mile kayak or hourlong ferry ride from Bayfield to LaPointe in Madeline Island. But when winter arrives it's a completely different story.

Winds whip across the bay and ice takes charge in late December. The ferry stops running when the ice gets too thick. Before the ice becomes thickest, a 1,000-horsepower, 20-passenger wind sled makes the trip. That's plenty of "vroooom" for six bucks. But when the ice can support a virtual road from Bayfield to Madeline Island, then it's time to ski, hike or drive across the bay.

Madeline Island is 14 miles long and three miles wide. It is the only developed island of all the Apostle Islands. Much of this island is private property, but that doesn't matter because the real gem is the 2,350-acre Big Bay State Park. There are groomed classic skiing snowshoeing trails and many unique places to take in the winter solitude.

The Rock Trail is not to be missed. Huge rock boulders and icebergs are around every corner as you ski the seashore on this terrific trail. It didn't bother us that the trail had meager snow given the surrounding grandeur. I climbed out on the snow-covered rocks with a camera in hand looking for the perfect photo amidst the mind-blowing scenery. Over my wife's protests, I moved closer to the ledge for a beautiful panoramic view.

Suddenly, I fell through a snow-covered hole. I caught myself with a leg dangling above open water. I had stepped into a vertical shaft between the boulders but managed to extricate myself with only abrasions that would remind me of a near ruinous event. My wife has not let me forget it either.

If you visit Big Bay State Park during the week, you may have the trails to yourself. But expect 20 or more fellow skiers on weekends. For the very adventurous, haul your kayak to the open water on the north side of the island for access to all the Apostle Islands. Be warned, though: Rescue facilities are very limited.

The Lagoon Ridge Trail is a good snowshoe trail or backcountry ski opportunity. There are great views of a lagoon and a remote area inaccessible much of the year. Wonderful wooded areas and blow downs of black spruce are part of this trail.

Big Bay park ranger Greg Behling outlined the various recreational opportunities and helped coordinate transportation. Park staff is constructing a 350-foot accessible ramp to Bay Beach. A floating accessible wheelchair is available for warm weather use.

There are several businesses offering food and drink over the winter months, including the Bell Street Tavern, Madeline Island Yacht Club, as well as a part-time grocery and mercantile-type store. But call before you go, because business hours can be spotty in the winter. The 250 hearty souls that tough out the winters here enjoy an abundance of outdoor fun. And they share the environs with coyotes, bear, eagles, deer and the occasional wolf. We were able to see several deer, two bald eagles and a coyote during a winter visit to Madeline Island.

My wife, Karen, and I often take time to explore far northern Wisconsin on our way to the American Birkebeiner. A key focus is dog-friendly winter recreation so our 4-year-old Lab mix Woody doesn't have stay at the kennel. Back on the mainland near Bayfield, we looked for dog-friendly, cross-country ski trails and hit the jackpot when we found Jerry Jay Jolly and Pike's Creek Ski trails three miles south of Bayfield on Star Route Road.

This trail network is a public-private cooperative effort that combines Bayfield County park facilities with the Department of Natural Resources and the Mount Ashwabay cross-county and downhill area. The Mount Ashwabay Education Foundation, in cooperation with Bayfield County's departments of tourism, recreation and forestry, operate the downhill area. The Star Route parking lot, located one mile west of State Highway 13, is the jumping off point to 40K of groomed skate and classic cross-county ski trails. There are also trails designated for snowshoeing and hiking.

These trails traverse the land Jerry Jay Jolly donated, and trail easements on the 160-acre parcel the family maintains to the south of Pike's Creek. Shortly after leaving the parking lot, you ski through a steep gorge with a small river running through it. The trail is very scenic, following the river for more than 1K. To the south and west, the trails meander through 1,000 acres of Bayfield County Forest, Nourse Sugarbush State Natural Area and the Mount Ashwabay Recreational Area.

You can also access the ski trails from the Mount Ashwabay Downhill Area via Ski Hill Road, but dogs are not allowed on this part of the trail network. Woody had plenty to do staying on the Jerry Jay Jolly side of the trail network.

The North County Trail is a great place to take your dog with many access points for a wilderness-type ski or snowshoe experience. There is good access to the North Country Trail from Penokee Mountain Ski Trail, which is hilly and challenging, via the County Road D Trailhead. This is a relatively flat and forested trail adjacent to West Davis Lake, a large beaver pond, and Porcupine Lake.

The Marengo River Valley is another great place for winter recreation via Forest Road 187. This segment might be the Chequamegon's most scenic as it is dominated by creek crossings. There's a spur trail to the Swedish settlement and gorgeous vistas on both sides of the wooded Marengo River Valley.

Another dog-friendly area is the Moquah Barrens. Not as flashy as the Ice Age Trail, this 640-acre National Forest property is located on Forest Road 236. Originally a pine barrens, it's been transformed over time to areas of mixed growth forest. A variety of mostly unmarked trails bisect this area.

A visit to the shoreline sea caves is a "must-do" Apostle Island activity. The best access point is located on Meyer Beach Road, five miles east of Cornucopia, Wisconsin. Don't forget to take your dog along, because it's only a one-mile hike, ski or snowshoe to some of the most dramatic ice caves of the Apostle Island National Lakeshore. The frozen waterfalls take on a myriad of colors based on the mineral content. Hugh icicles hang some 30 feet. Big ice-filled chambers take on different colors and hues depending on the available light. You'll hear yourself saying "Wow" over and over again.

This trip can only be done when ice conditions warrant. Call the Ice Line at 715/779-3397, ext. 499, before attempting this trip.

Whenever we get this far north, a visit to Copper Falls State Park is mandatory. Skiing, hiking or snowshoeing along the Copper Falls gorge is always a highlight. The confluence of the Bad River and Tyler Forks make for a wonderful winter setting as you ski high over the river. Time your visit right and you'll see otters playing in the rapids and wolf tracks on the trails.

Park Manager Ben Bergy has been very active adding a load of winter and summer opportunities. A 2.5K skate ski trail has been developed and a children's winter ski program has been started. Winter 2010 marked the first year for the Copper Falls After School Ski Club, a combined effort of Copper Falls State Park, Friends of Copper Falls State Park and Mellen School District. Over 40 kids age 5 to 17 meet twice a week for ski outings and coaching.

The primary focus of the program is geared toward introducing local youths to cross-country skiing. But general advocacy of exercise, health and outdoor education are also included in the curriculum. The program begins in January with participants receiving a handmade wooden medallion at the late February break-up party.

Outdoor education is incorporated through weekly themes that include tree identification, birding, animal tracks and several others. The Friends of Copper Falls State Park have already raised almost $1,000 toward purchasing much needed ski equipment as current skis are in desperate need of being replaced.

Besides the new skate ski loop, excellent classic ski and snowshoe choices await at Copper Falls. The Cascade Loop courses above and along the Bad River with impressive views and steep terrain. Unfortunately, one of the trail groomers won't lift the tracker on the downhill areas resulting in an array of body crash marks on the bottom of these hills.

The Red Granite Trail offers a unique winter opportunity because the trails are snowmobile packed by park staff. This allows hiking, snowshoeing and cross-county skiing. Woody was happy to be welcome there.

Last February, 2 feet of champagne powder fell in southern Bayfield and northern Ashland County. Many recreational opportunities in one of the Midwest's most scenic areas await winter visitors to the top of the Wisconsin.

Bayfield is located on the south shore of Lake Superior in far northern Wisconsin on State Highway 13.

Lodging: There are many lodging choices in Bayfield, ranging from high-end house rentals, B & Bs in all prices ranges, as well as typical motel rooms. The Andrew Tate Condos (apostlerentals.com) range in size from one to multiple bedrooms. The owner of Unit No. 200 is dog-friendly and very helpful in recommending recreational opportunities and restaurants. The condo was modern, with many amenities and a harbor view.

I usually don't stay at places with granite countertops, a dishwasher, fireplace and Internet, but the price was right. And it has an ice maker for those with shin abrasions.

Top ranked Bayfield motels include Seagull Bay, Winfield Inn and Bayfield Inn.

For lodging, restaurant and transportation information, visit bayfield.org and madelineisland.com.

Food: If you enjoy fresh fish, a visit to Bodin's (www.bodins.com) isn't to be missed. Located on the Bayfield Harbor, this commercial fishing enterprise sells their daily catch directly to patrons. We bought and cooked delicious whitefish and lake trout meals during our visit. You can also get Bodin's fresh fish at the Bayfield IGA grocer and a few local restaurants.

Several Bayfield restaurants are open during winter months, including Maggie's, The Egg Toss and North End. Maggie's Cajun whitefish was very good and reasonably priced.

More information: For an excellent website with info about the area's ski trail, visit www.norwiski.com. For ice road conditions and ferry and wind sled schedules, visit madferry.com. For more Big Bay Park info, go to en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Bay_State_Park.