The 42-mile Root River State Trail and its connecting Harmony-Preston Trail are well-known paved paths that wind through the scenic Root River valley in Southeast Minnesota’s Driftless Region. Cyclists are drawn to the hub of this trail system - Lanesboro - a charming little town nestled along the river and framed by towering limestone bluffs. Though it’s home to fewer than 1,000 residents, Lanesboro is well-equipped for outdoor enthusiasts, offering boutique hotels, restaurants, bars, an ice cream shop and a brewery located in a renovated old granary. Paddle On coffee shop has a wall that can grab your attention with illustrations of the dozens of different fish species found in the Root River. Need gear or a tune-up? The Little River General Store offers bike rentals and repairs. It’s also one of a few local outfitters that offer canoe or tube rentals for those looking to mix in some water-based fun.
I had ridden the trail system before 2019, but that year marked a new experience. Trenton Raygor relocated The Filthy 50, a gravel bike race he directs, to Lanesboro. I signed up, and that was my introduction to gravel riding in the area. Held in October, you never know what the weather will have in store. The event that year coincided with a forecast for cool temperatures and a chance of scattered flurries. Thankfully, I had packed extra layers in my frame bag and embraced the day, since by about mile 10, “scattered flurries” had become a steady snowfall that didn’t let up until nearly the ride’s end. A mid-route aid station where an Amish family was passing out homemade treats helped refuel for the final stretch, and I rolled back into town covered in slop and smiling from ear to ear! The route roamed through forested minimum-maintenance roads, past the ruins of an old stone mill, alongside trout streams, and through serene farmland. It was a beautiful, unforgettable ride. To find out more about the Filthy 50 gravel race (also 25-mile and 100-mile options), see the-filthy.com.
Since that snowy Filthy 50, I’ve returned to the Lanesboro area several times - both to race (although really for me and many others, it’s more “ride” than race) and to just explore the area’s other gravel roads. My wife and I have also celebrated several anniversaries there, enjoying riding the trail system, hiking through the woodland hills and valleys of the nearby Eagle Bluff Environmental Learning Center, and checking out the live music scene found most weekends at a favorite spot in town - the back patio tables of the High Court Pub, where the South Branch Root River rushes by just below.
While I appreciate the paved trail, I’m especially drawn to gravel riding. The terrain here offers plenty of challenge - there are few lengthy, flat stretches of gravel following the river. Instead, gravel roads in this region mean climbing and descending bluffs and steep ravines. The elevation gain is well worth it though, revealing quiet, scenic roads passing through state forests and alongside rocky streams.
Sometimes, I’ll plan a leg-burner of a ride that eventually drops down into the valley, allowing me to roll back to town on the gentle paved trail. It’s a great way to combine effort with enjoyment, especially when you can stop at a trailside spot like Aroma Pie Shoppe in Whalan or the Old Barn Resort restaurant. Both are personal favorites.
When exploring unfamiliar roads, I like to plan my route ahead of time. The Driftless Region doesn’t follow a tidy grid; instead, the roads wind with the landscape - over steep bluffs, through hollows, and across creeks. That’s part of the charm, but it also means it’s a good idea to know where (or if) you can refuel along the way. If planning a long ride, it’s important to know whether or not there will be any towns or convenience stores on-route or if you’ll need to be self-sufficient and pack enough food and water for the full ride. I use an online program called Ride with GPS, using the “Route Planner” section, viewing satellite imagery and road maps to create a route.
For a scenic introduction to gravel in the area, here is a 20-mile loop I enjoy. It starts in Lanesboro with 15 miles of gravel, then finishes with a return stretch on the paved trail: ridewithgps.comroutes/50912468
This route starts by winding along forest and farmland west of town before passing by the Lanesboro State Trout Hatchery, where according to the Department of Natural Resources, over 700,000 brown and rainbow trout are reared annually to either fingerling or yearling size before being stocked into area streams. The route then winds by rocky bluffs along Duschee Creek, whose waters help feed the hatchery. After some climbing to the bluff tops, you’ll finally start descending along the beautifully rugged Easy Street, which passes through a section of state forest. Soon afterwards, you’ll turn south and descend further along Gribben Creek, where around a gentle bend, the ruins of an 1868 stone flour mill come into view, dramatically framed by the steep bluff behind it. Finally, you’ll take a short stretch of paved road to Whalan, where you can recharge at the Whalan Depot or Aroma Pie Shoppe before riding the trail back to Lanesboro.
Lanesboro certainly isn’t the only location to base a great ride from in the area. Just west in Preston - Minnesota’s “Trout Capital” - I’ve enjoyed gravel rides out to Historic Forestville, a partially preserved ghost town located within Forestville/Mystery Cave State Park. The original steel truss bridge over the river was removed in 2023 due to safety concerns, temporarily preventing travel between Forestville and the rest of the park. However, a pedestrian bridge was installed in 2024, and I was able to walk my bike across that on a ride last year.
Further east in the Houston and Hokah areas, a group of gravel cycling enthusiasts has curated a series of routes available at driftlesscycling.comgravel. In addition, their “Neo-Retro” rides, held Memorial and Labor Day weekends, blend modern technology with old-school cycling camaraderie. As they put it:
“The Neo part describes the latest technology in mapping, GPS, and event organizing. The Retro part covers showing up on whatever bike you have, and finishing a great gravel ride with a get-together at a local establishment for food and beverages.”
For more inspiration, stories, and places to ride, check out The Nxrth - a site created by Josh Rizzo that focuses largely on gravel riding, fat biking, and bikepacking in the Upper Midwest. It includes a gravel guide for the Lanesboro area, which can be a great resource for planning your adventure. thenxrth.compost/lanesboro-minnesota-gravel-biking-guide
Like my home state of Iowa and much of the Upper Midwest, southeast Minnesota has numerous gravel roads with widely varying landscapes and interesting sites you’ll come across. That’s one of the big draws of riding gravel for me; there are many ways to easily mix up your rides and experiences so it never gets stale. You’re more likely to come across the occasional pickup truck or tractor than another cyclist. But with very few exceptions, the drivers I’ve encountered have been courteous, slowing down and giving both a wave and plenty of space. I hope you get the chance to explore the gravel roads of this beautiful region by bike. Just do me one favor if you pass through Whalen - if they have blackberry peach pie on the menu, please save me a slice!
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