A Winter Wonderland
By Michael McFadzen
It was a memorable day for sure. The snow was coming down hard with a 20 mile-per-hour wind whipping the snow into furrows as we broke tracks on the North Country Trail (NCT) hundreds of feet above Lake Superior. Most of us were digging the extreme ski experience along Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Our initial plan was to ski from Sand Point to Miners Castle. The fat waxless skis were holding their own. But one member of our crew was not. It started with a few minor falls, usually burying a ski tip in the soft power that was accumulating quickly. But after each fall, it took longer to orientate and get moving. We took a break to assess our situation. Given the snow and personal situationality, we decided to bail on Miner’s Castle. We would bag the Castle another day. For now, we powered our way in a picturesque ski back to Sand Point.
I love my annual trips to the Munising area. Summer and fall used to be my favorite time to visit, but things have changed as Pictured Rocks have been discovered by the masses. Years ago, my wife Karen and I had the place to ourselves, hiking and climbing all over the rocks and cliffs, hardly seeing anyone. Now it’s a summer boom town with outside money claiming a piece of god’s country. Not that I can blame anyone. Its scenic beauty is unparalleled in the Midwest. It’s not Door County, but it’s getting close, especially on warm summer days.
Now, winter has become my favorite time to journey here. There’s something spiritual about getting up to big snow country. The lake effect blows off Lake Superior are exciting to see and recreate in. Some areas of the upper peninsula of Michigan can get 200-300 inches of snow annually. There is something mystical and special; beholding the great views over Munising Bay, Grand Island and other shoreline features. Yup, winter is my time here. If you haven’t made your way to Pictured Rocks, times a wasting. There are tons to see and do here. Some of my favorite places are listed below:
Valley Spur is one of the lycra crowds favorite places. The 27-mile cross country trail system has reliable grooming from December through March. Dependable snowfall is the name of the game due to its proximity to Lake Superior. Ski or snowshoe through hardwood forests, hemlock groves and alongside a small river. Don’t miss Worel’s Woods old growth hemlock stand. Some of these giants are estimated to be 300 years old. A heated shelter is open daily with rental skis available Thursdays through Sundays. No charge for skiers age 18 and under. Valley Spur is located five miles west of Munising, Michigan on M-94.
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore offers two groomed, classic ski trails. My favorite is located 1 mile east of Munising with the other near Grand Marais. The Munising system has 12 miles of trails winding through hardwoods, conifer forests, the old Becker farmstead and huge hills alongside Lake Superior. Grooming is intermittent but locals usually have it skied in. Don’t miss the spectacular cliffside views on trails G, F, and H. These lakeside trails also provide views of frozen waterfalls and ice curtains. Ice climbers are a common sight in this part of the park. Remember its classic skiing only, don’t be a knob.
Like ice? Then the Sand Point ice curtains are the place for you. These frozen waterfalls and icescapes are not to be missed. The most accessible ice columns are found along the Pictured Rocks escarpment between Munising Falls and Sand Point. Park at the Sand Point parking lot. There are no formal trails here. Bushwack into the woods following the snow packed trails created by ice climbers. Marvel at the huge columns which take on different hues based on mineral content and lighting. Snowshoes are sometimes helpful but can be cumbersome depending upon conditions. Cleated boots are the best way to get up and around these special formations. Check out Michigan Icefest 2020 which takes place February 12-16. Some of the top US ice climbers converge on Munising for this event. Call Down Wind Sports (906 226 7112) for the latest ice conditions or to schedule an ice climbing lesson.
Want to get away from it all? The North Country Trail (NCT) runs the entire length of Pictured Rocks offering the best of the best. Winter accessibility is limited but there is reasonable access at Sand Point Road or Grand Marais. The NCT travels alongside huge cliffs, sand beaches, waterfalls and is a bucket list experience any time of the year. One of my favorite skis/snowshoes starts at Sand Point and ends at Miner’s Castle. Grab your fat waxless skis and head east from the Sand Point Parking lot. You’ll need to de-ski to ascend a treacherous stretch of icy steps that eventually merges with the Munising Ski Trails. Keep going east on the NCT to Miner’s Castle or beyond. This isn’t for the faint of heart but you will be rewarded with yowza views and frequent lake effect snows.
If you are looking for a less developed but groomed ski experience check out the McKeever Hills Trail. This classic only system offers up 3 loops of varying lengths and difficulty. You’ll ski forested trails alongside several lakes. Located on the property, is the McKeever cabin which is rentable through the Forest Service. This cool and somewhat rustic cabin was constructed in 1991 through a partnership between the Forest Service, Hiawatha Log Homes and volunteer labor, according to the Forest website. The cabin is situated on McKeever Lake, located in the heart of the Hiawatha National Forest. The McKeever Trails are located 13 miles south of Munising on FH 13.
Last and maybe best is Bruno’s Run. This remote, 10 mile loop is a challenging back-country or snowshoe trail , but most people hike or bike it when the white stuff is gone. There’s a variety of landscapes including overlooks, valleys and a river crossing. My favorite Bruno’s activity is back-country skiing along the Indian River. It’s almost spiritual viewing this gorgeous waterway. Keep a look-out for bear and wolf tracks and several trumpeter swans that frequent this area. Bruno’s Run is located 11 miles south of Munising on FH-13.
About Town Eats, Lodging and Drafts
Okay, it’s deep winter in Munising and your hungry, after putting in mega Ks in deep powder. Deserve a good beer and grub? Got you covered. Stop at The East Channel Brewery which offers a variety of craft beers including IPAs and local favorite Old Tru’s. Wanna take some home? A 4 pack of 16oz will cost you $15.
My favorite restaurants include The Falling Rock Cafe which offers great sandwiches, soups, home roasted coffee with a cool little bookstore. The Falling Rock also offers periodic entertainment. For a true gourmet dining experience visit Tracey’s at The Roam Inn. During our last visit, my wife Karen enjoyed the quinoa bowl with blackened whitefish, while I feasted on the 5 star chicken pot pie. The whitefish chowder is to die for. Reservations are required. Roam also offers high end lodging. Make sure you walk around the place to view the excellent photography which is displayed throughout. Another good lodging option is the Holiday Inn Express which offers up Lake Superior views. Don’t fret if these places aren’t within your budget. There is a variety of affordable lodging south of Munising. But be prepared as some of these motels can be noisy due to popularity amongst the snowmobile crowd.
